# The Complete Guide to Building a Skin Care Routine That Works Great skin is not simply a matter of DNA — your daily habits have a big impact on what you see in the mirror. With so many conflicting opinions from product reviews and doctors, building a skin-care routine can feel overwhelming, but experts agree it comes down to three core steps: cleansing, toning, and moisturizing. This comprehensive guide from the experts at The New York Times breaks down everything you need to know — from choosing the right cleanser and understanding serums to mastering sunscreen application and even deciding whether face masks and high-tech gadgets are worth it. Most importantly, the experts stress that consistent use over at least six weeks is the key to seeing real results. # The Complete Guide to Building a Skin Care Routine That Works ## Table of Contents - Key Points - Why Your Skin Care Routine Matters - The Three Main Steps: Cleanse, Tone, Moisturize - Give It Time: Why Patience Is Essential - Cleansing: The Foundation of Every Routine - How to Find Your Facial Cleanser - How to Wash Your Face Like a Pro - Toning: A Modern Supplement for Your Skin - Treating With Serums: Powerful Skin Allies - Helpful Hints for Using Serums - Moisturizing: Hydrate and Protect - Day Creams vs. Night Creams: What's the Difference? - Eye Creams, Explained - Protect With Sunscreen: The #1 Most Crucial Product - Decoding Sunscreen Formulas: Chemical vs. Physical - Sunscreen Application 101 - Are Face Masks Worth the Hype? - Do You Need Special Skin Care Tools? - What Is a Face Oil? - What to Do When Your Skin Gets Irritated - Frequently Asked Questions - Source Information ## Key Points - A skin care routine has three core steps: cleansing, toning, and moisturizing. Apply products from thinnest to thickest. - Consistent use over at least six weeks is needed to see real results from any skin care product. - Sunscreen is the most crucial skin care product; use daily moisturizer with broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher. - Wash your face twice daily and use exfoliating scrubs only once a week to avoid stripping healthy oils. - If skin irritation occurs, cool pulse points, apply an oatmeal mask, use chilled green tea rinse, or manage stress. ## Why Your Skin Care Routine Matters Depending on which product reviews you read or which doctors you consult, there is a dizzying number of opinions on everything from how to moisturize to how to protect yourself from UV rays. But here's the good news: caring for your skin is ultimately a personal journey. The goal of any skin-care routine is to tune up your complexion so it's functioning at its best, while also troubleshooting or targeting any areas you want to work on. According to Kristina Holey, a San Francisco skin-care specialist, "Beauty routines are an opportunity to notice changes within yourself." As your skin's needs shift with age, so will your products. Still, she adds, "it's not about creating perfection." The science behind skin-care products has come a long way, but there's still no such thing as an instant fix. The key is to use these three essential steps as a daily ritual that fortifies your skin and grounds your day. ## The Three Main Steps: Cleanse, Tone, Moisturize Think of your skin-care routine as consisting of three main steps: 1. **Cleansing** — Washing your face. 1. **Toning** — Balancing the skin. 1. **Moisturizing** — Hydrating and softening the skin. These three steps form the backbone of any effective routine, whether you're a beginner or a seasoned skin-care enthusiast. ## Give It Time: Why Patience Is Essential The science behind skin-care products has advanced significantly, but Dr. Rachel Nazarian, a Manhattan dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group, warns that there's still no such thing as an instant fix. "Results are only seen through consistent use," she explains. So how long should you wait before judging a product? Generally, aim to use a product over at least six weeks, once or twice daily, to notice a difference. **Pro tip:** With any skin-care product, apply in order of consistency — from thinnest to thickest. For example: cleanser, toner (if you use it), serum, and then moisturizer. ## Cleansing: The Foundation of Every Routine Washing your face is the most basic and essential step of any routine, says Dr. Carlos Charles, a New York City dermatologist. "Our skin comes in contact with environmental pollutants, dirt and other factors each day that should be gently removed." Experts recommend washing your face **twice a day** — morning and night — to avoid clogged pores, dullness, and acne. ## How to Find Your Facial Cleanser The right formula cleanses your skin without stripping essential, healthy oils. Take it easy with exfoliating scrubs — use them only once a week — and avoid those with crushed walnut shells or abrasive ingredients. One important term you'll see on labels is **"non-comedogenic."** If a product claims to be non-comedogenic, it means that it shouldn't clog pores or trigger acne — either by occluding the skin, blocking glands, or irritating the hair follicle. However, it's important to know that this claim is **not regulated by the F.D.A.**, and many companies do their own internal tests to determine whether a product should be considered comedogenic or not. - Some common known comedogenic (pore-clogging) ingredients include **coconut oil** and **cocoa butter**. - Typically, the fewer ingredients a product has, the easier it is to determine if it will cause any reactions. ## How to Wash Your Face Like a Pro Did you know there's a best way to wash your face? Here's how skin-care specialist Kristina Holey does it, step by step: 1. **Start with warm water.** Rinse your face with warm water to moisten the skin. If you're using an oil, shake your bottle, apply one pump into your palms, and rub your hands together. The liquid will start to emulsify. 1. **Massage gently.** Massage the cleanser into your skin and slowly add more warm water to create a lather. Holey's insider tip: add tiny handfuls of water from the faucet, keeping your face low in the basin. She likes to use the first three fingers of each hand and work them together in symmetry. Think about massaging the muscles under the skin rather than the skin itself — you don't want to be so gentle you can't feel anything, but you also don't want to pull on the skin. It may take a few tries to figure out the right pressure and rhythm. 1. **Work in a pattern.** Work the cleanser all over the face, beginning with the nose and cheekbones and moving outward. Try rubbing back and forth over the bridge of the nose, then down and around the nostrils. Draw circles around the eyes, work up and outward on the forehead, around the ears, down the sides of your face, along the jawline and chin, and finish with small circles up the neck. Holey recommends applying a little pressure and working circles on the lymph nodes under your jaw and on the top of your neck for about two minutes. 1. **Rinse thoroughly.** Rinse your hands in running water and follow the same pattern with water, slowly removing the cleanser. This can be repeated multiple times. 1. **Remove heavy makeup.** If you're wearing heavy makeup, soak a warm muslin cloth in water and gently swipe it across your face, removing any residue and drying the skin. Some people opt to just rinse off their oil cleansers with water. 1. **Pat dry.** After the face is thoroughly cleansed and rinsed, pat dry with a soft towel. You can also moisten a cotton pad with a hydrating facial mist and swipe it across your face as a quick alternative to the double-cleansing technique. ## Toning: A Modern Supplement for Your Skin For many, the word "toner" brings to mind stinging astringents from the 1980s. "The original was an alcohol-based product that was used to dry up oily skin and remove any leftover dirt following cleansing," Dr. Nazarian says. Today's formulas, however, have evolved dramatically. Think of them as supplements — these thin liquids deliver an extra shot of nutrients, helping the other products in your regimen absorb better while still balancing your complexion. Most experts, including New York City aesthetician Jordana Mattioli, consider toner to be **optional**: "It can be a good way to add in specific ingredients that you may not have in your other products or add another layer of skin-replenishment." If you have the time and inclination, here are some hero ingredients to look for in a toner: - **Alpha and beta hydroxy acids** to gently remove dead skin cells that can clog pores, improve sun-damaged skin, and minimize dullness. - **Hyaluronic acid** to boost hydration, seal in dewiness, and plump skin to subtly treat fine lines. - **Rose water and green tea** to calm irritation and reduce redness with an anti-inflammatory effect. - **Vitamin E and C** to fight daily exposure to free radicals that can age your skin. **How to apply toner:** "Toners should be done after cleansing and before putting on anything else," Mattioli says. The traditional application method is to saturate a cotton pad and pass it over your face, but as Mattioli points out, "You end up losing a lot of product." **Insider tip:** "Applying toner with clean hands is the most efficient. Just pour a few drops in your palm, then swipe it on." Or if you prefer, pull apart a cotton pad "so it's not so thick before putting toner on it." Most formulas can be used morning and night, but you might want to use those with exfoliating acids only at night or every other day. ## Treating With Serums: Powerful Skin Allies Simply put, serums are powerful skin allies. Filled with concentrated doses of active ingredients, these elixirs can mitigate a number of issues, from dark spots to wrinkles. "Even if you don't have any specific issues, everyone still needs a general antioxidant serum in the morning to protect from daily aggressors," Mattioli says. While there are "limitless options" for ingredients, Dr. Nazarian singles out her hardworking favorites. To handle specific issues, look for these products: - **Hyaluronic acid** to seal in hydration and strengthen the barrier function (the top layer of your skin) to prevent moisture loss. - **Vitamin C** to help brighten dull skin and decrease dark spots with continued use. - **Retinol, vitamin B3, and peptides** to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin — proteins in the body that help prevent lines and skin sagging. - **Colloidal sulfur and niacinamide** to calm redness and irritation by decreasing inflammation, and to improve acne with antimicrobial effects. ## Helpful Hints for Using Serums If you have multiple concerns, you might want to use multiple formulas. "I recommend treating different areas with different products," Mattioli says. "Maybe you'll use a vitamin C serum all over but then dab on [another] for hyperpigmentation on just a few spots." Just run any combination by your dermatologist to avoid potential reactions. To save time, don't try mixing a serum into your moisturizer. This "lessens the ability of the serum to absorb effectively," Dr. Nazarian says. "Products should be applied one by one." Not all serums are applied with the same frequency. "This varies with the ingredients," Dr. Nazarian says. "I prefer antioxidants in the morning because they give you additional protection from the environment, and most of us don't use enough sunscreen as is," Mattioli adds. Yet certain ingredients are best when slathered on at night. For example: "Retinols are not sun-stable and will degrade if applied in daytime," Dr. Nazarian explains. **Bottom line:** Read the label instructions carefully. ## Moisturizing: Hydrate and Protect The most basic function of a moisturizer is to hydrate and soften the skin. "Essentially, moisturizers assist in preventing water loss through the outer layers of skin," Dr. Charles explains. "They can also complement the naturally found protective oils and other building blocks within the skin, such as ceramides." This is one product that doctors recommend using **year-round, for all skin types**. "Skin naturally loses the ability to retain moisture as we age," Dr. Nazarian insists, "and daily activities, such as washing, can strip natural hydrators from the surface." **How to pick a moisturizer:** "Everyone needs moisture, but the texture of your moisturizer will differ depending on your skin type," Mattioli notes. Consider this your cheat-sheet, courtesy of Dr. Nazarian — the thickness and richness of your moisturizer should match whether your skin is oily, dry, combination, or sensitive. ## Day Creams vs. Night Creams: What's the Difference? Creams you apply in the morning are equipped to protect your skin from the environmental aggressors you'll face when you leave the house. Many contain antioxidants to minimize pollution-based free radicals and sunscreen to shield you from ultraviolet radiation. They typically have a **lightweight consistency**. Night creams, on the other hand, focus on repairing any damage you might have picked up during the day. They often include ingredients like retinol to speed cellular turnover and counteract dark spots. These creams also replenish moisture levels — which naturally dip in the evening — with emollients that often create a **rich, thick texture**. ## Eye Creams, Explained Can you survive without an eye cream? Absolutely. But if you have specific concerns — like hyperpigmentation, dryness, or puffiness — you might want to try one. "The skin around the eyes is quite thin and delicate, and more likely to react to irritating ingredients than other areas," Dr. Nazarian says. "Therefore, dermatologists typically recommend an eye cream that considers the potential sensitivity and has more tolerable concentrations of active ingredients." - **For undereye bags and inflammation:** caffeine, peptides, and hyaluronic acid can be soothing, Mattioli says. - **For dark circles:** "Dark circles can be due to visible veins or actual discoloration common in darker skin tones," she says. "Look for brightening ingredients like **vitamin C, kojic acid, and niacinamide**." **Insider tip:** Steer clear of strong retinols (which can sting and create redness) and fragrance to avoid any eye irritation. ## Protect With Sunscreen: The #1 Most Crucial Product All of the experts consulted unanimously agreed on one thing: **sunscreen is, hands down, the most crucial skin-care product.** It's "of utmost importance as part of your year-round regimen," Dr. Charles points out. "Daily and consistent sunscreen use helps to prevent the development of fine lines and wrinkles, textural imperfections, and changes in the appearance of pores over time. More importantly, daily sunscreen use can help to prevent the formation of certain skin cancers." To make it easy to remember, experts recommend using a daily moisturizer with a built-in **broad spectrum SPF of at least 30**. ## Decoding Sunscreen Formulas: Chemical vs. Physical There's a lot of debate over which sunscreens are best and safest for your complexion. You have two types of ingredients in formulas: **Chemical ingredients**, such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, are absorbed into your skin to counteract the damage from ultraviolet light. - **Pros:** Lightweight, easy to apply, and transparent on the skin. - **Cons:** Can irritate and cause reactions in those with sensitive skin. Certain ingredients like oxybenzone have raised health concerns and carry a "high hazard" rating on the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetic Database. **Physical ingredients**, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, sit on top of your skin to deflect or prevent UV rays from entering your body. - **Pros:** Very little risk of irritation or health concerns. - **Cons:** Often leave a white or grayish tint on the skin, particularly in those with darker skin tones. **Insider tip:** "I typically advocate the use of sunscreens that contain a combination of physical and chemical blocking components," Dr. Charles says. "These will provide protection from both UVA and UVB rays, and typically do not create any visible residue." ## Sunscreen Application 101 Consider this your rule of thumb, according to Dr. Nazarian: - Apply sunscreen **30 minutes before sun exposure**. - Reapply at least **every two hours**. - Chemical sunscreens should be applied directly to clean skin, while physical blockers can be applied last in your skin-care regimen — but before makeup. - About **two tablespoons** of sunscreen are appropriate to cover your face and exposed areas of your body. - Within that amount, use a **nickel-size dollop** to cover your face. ## Are Face Masks Worth the Hype? To say that face masks have become popular lately is a bit of an understatement — **Sephora has more than 400 varieties**, and 60 of those launched in just the last few months. Masks "offer highly concentrated treatments to address specific issues," says New York City dermatologist Dr. Joshua Zeichner. But unlike a toner or a serum, masks deliver ingredients under occlusion, which helps the ingredients absorb more efficiently, notes Dr. Nazarian. Then there's the fun factor: many of the latest innovations bubble up, turn colors, and peel off. Yes, it's a little gimmicky, and this step is certainly not essential in your routine. "Think of masks like boosters — not necessary but beneficial," Mattioli says. If you want to give one a whirl, here are three performance-driven varieties to consider, according to Mattioli: - **Sheet masks:** "These are primarily hydrating. Having ingredients saturated on the skin in this occlusive manner keeps air from getting in and you'll get a higher absorption in a short amount of time. I always recommend keeping these in the fridge to get an anti-inflammatory benefit as well." - **Sleeping packs or overnight masks:** "Overnight masks or sleeping packs will have a thicker texture and help trap in whatever ingredients you layer underneath. They're ideal for mature skin or severely dry skin." - **Clay or mud masks:** "These absorb oil and can have a mild exfoliating effect — so they're great for oily areas. You don't have to put it on your whole face, though. You can target just a few areas. In fact, I love multi-masking: using a clay on the t-zone and a hydrating one everywhere else." **Insider tip:** Apply masks after serum but before moisturizer, unless it's a leave-on overnight mask, which can take the place of your nighttime moisturizer. Like any product that supplements your regular routine, masks should be used in moderation — **no more than once a week** to prevent any irritation, Dr. Zeichner says. ## Do You Need Special Skin Care Tools? Not really. A simple washcloth really does most of the work. But who needs a spa appointment when the latest skin-care gadgets — and one surprisingly analog standby — bring the same technology to your bathroom? Here are a few the experts recommend: - **Washcloth:** Lightly buffing with a standard-issue (100-percent cotton) clean cloth and gentle cleanser might be all you need for smoother skin. To avoid any bacteria, use a fresh cloth every day. - **Sonic cleansing:** A rotating disc emits pulsations that dislodge impurities from your pores. Most tools come with multiple settings for a gentle to deep clean. - **LED light therapy:** Many devices combine multiple colored lights in one wand, so you can customize your session. Switch on **red** to stimulate collagen and elastin production while decreasing inflammation; **blue** to eliminate acne-causing bacteria and redness; and **yellow** to even out your tone. - **Microcurrent waves:** A low-level current sends waves through the skin to tighten and contour the facial muscles — think of it as a workout for your complexion. [NuFace Trinity Facial Toning Device, $325] - **Fractional non-ablative laser:** Beams of light penetrate the skin (creating a warm, but not burning, sensation) to generate cellular disruption, which triggers the body's natural healing process to fight off lines and wrinkles. [Tria Beauty SmoothBeauty Laser, $495] ## What Is a Face Oil? Touted as a pure and natural way to improve your skin, botanical facial oils — infused with plant and farm-fresh extracts — have exploded into the mainstream market lately. Still, experts often advise caution when dousing yourself, as not all oils are created equal. "I recommend avoiding essential oils or those with added perfumes, which increase potential of skin irritation," Dr. Nazarian says. Here are 4 benefits of facial oils and which specific oils to look for: - **Intensely hydrate** without leaving a greasy residue. Look for: **maracuja oil**. - **Brighten and even out** your skin tone. Look for: **olive oil**. - **Rid bacteria and soothe** acne-prone skin. Look for: **marula oil**. - **Calm red, inflamed skin** and ease the symptoms of rosacea. Look for: **rosehip oil**. **How and when to use an oil:** Most facial oils can be used twice daily, both morning and night. They should be applied after facial serums and gels, but before your creams and lotions. Spread a dime-size amount between your palms and pat it on, targeting the outer areas of the face, and then sweeping in toward the center, around your eyes, nose, and lips. ## What to Do When Your Skin Gets Irritated Many times skin irritation, from acne to eczema, can be traced back to overzealous habits. "Unfortunately, a lot of what I do is get people back to having healthy skin from overuse of products — stripping cleansers, items that over-exfoliate or contain sensitizing ingredients — which they were using as a foundation for healthy skin but it took them farther away from it," Holey says. To bring your skin back to its baseline, she suggests the following holistic remedies: - **Cool your pulse points.** Run cold water over your pulse points, such as your wrists, to lower your internal body temperature, which calms your skin, too. - **Apply an oatmeal mask.** Mix dried oats with a few spoonfuls of water. Spread this paste on your skin, and let it sit until it's semi-dry, then rinse off to rid yourself of inflammation. - **Use chilled green tea as a rinse.** Steep green tea, chill it, and splash it on your face. EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), a polyphenol in green tea, has an "immediate soothing effect," Holey says. - **Try acupuncture.** Acupuncture can improve circulation, digestion, and immunity internally, all of which supports healthy skin externally. Holey recommends weekly treatments initially, then monthly maintenance sessions. - **Live well.** You can read stress on your face — literally, since high levels of cortisol (a stress hormone) can weaken your skin, bring on acne, and even accelerate wrinkling. Holey's advice? Exercise regularly, get your rest, meditate, or find ways to feel positive. The results will show on your skin. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### How long should I use a new skin care product before judging if it works? Experts advise using a product consistently for at least six weeks, once or twice daily, to notice a difference. There is no instant fix, and results come from regular use. Patience is essential, as skin needs time to respond to any new product. ### What is the correct way to apply sunscreen? Apply sunscreen 30 minutes before sun exposure and reapply at least every two hours. Chemical sunscreens go on clean skin, while physical blockers can be applied last, before makeup. Use about two tablespoons for face and body, with a nickel-size dollop for the face. ### What does non-comedogenic mean on a skin care label? Non-comedogenic means a product should not clog pores or trigger acne, either by occluding the skin, blocking glands, or irritating hair follicles. However, this claim is not regulated by the FDA, and companies do their own tests. Coconut oil and cocoa butter are known pore-clogging ingredients. ### How often should I wash my face? Wash your face twice a day, morning and night, to remove environmental pollutants, dirt, and other factors that can clog pores and cause dullness or acne. Use a cleanser that does not strip essential healthy oils. Exfoliating scrubs should be used only once a week, avoiding abrasive ingredients. ### Are eye creams necessary? Eye creams are not essential, but they can help with specific concerns like hyperpigmentation, dryness, or puffiness. The skin around the eyes is thin and delicate, so dermatologists recommend eye creams with tolerable concentrations of active ingredients. For dark circles, look for vitamin C, kojic acid, or niacinamide. ### What should I do if my skin gets irritated from skin care products? Cool your pulse points with cold water, apply an oatmeal mask, or rinse with chilled green tea for immediate soothing. Acupuncture may improve circulation and help skin health. Live well by exercising, resting, and managing stress, as cortisol can weaken skin and worsen acne. ### Should I get a second opinion on my skin care routine if I have persistent irritation or acne? If your skin irritation or acne persists despite following a consistent routine for at least six weeks, a second opinion can help identify whether your products are the cause. Many cases of irritation stem from overuse of stripping cleansers, over-exfoliating, or using products with sensitizing ingredients. A second opinion can review your routine and suggest adjustments, such as simplifying to the core steps of cleansing, toning, and moisturizing, or choosing non-comedogenic products. Diagnostic Detectives Network provides independent expert second opinions. ## Source Information **Original article title:** How to Build a Skin Care Routine - The New York Times **Authors:** Kari Molvar, Daniel Yergin, and Tara Parker-Pope (Illustrations by Konstantin Kakanias; Animation by Jonathan Eden) **Publication:** The New York Times, originally published October 2, 2017; captured March 30, 2025 **Experts quoted:** Kristina Holey (San Francisco skin-care specialist), Dr. Rachel Nazarian (Manhattan dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group), Dr. Carlos Charles (New York City dermatologist), Jordana Mattioli (New York City aesthetician), Dr. Joshua Zeichner (New York City dermatologist) *This patient-friendly article is based on peer-reviewed research and expert commentary originally published in The New York Times. It has been adapted for a general audience while preserving all key facts, figures, and recommendations from the original source.* --- Publisher: Diagnostic Detectives Network (https://diagnosticdetectives.com) — independent multi-expert medical second opinions, worldwide, private-pay. Author byline: Anton Titov, MD, PhD. Contact: https://diagnosticdetectives.com/pages/contact Canonical page: https://diagnosticdetectives.com/products/the-complete-guide-to-building-a-skin-care-routine-that-works